…but doesn’t take forever! 

Fabric // confetti viscose from Tessuti Fabrics

Sizing // Sewaholic patterns are known for lovingly accommodating the pear shaped among us. Being not especially of the pear shaped variety, I took extra care choosing a size knowing that if I went by my waist measurement, the hips would likely be too big. I measured an 8 for the bust and waist, but a 6 for the hips, so I figured if there was some ease in the pattern then I could probably get away with the 6 around the waist and the hips would be a better fit than the 8. The 6 is perfect. No sizing, fitting mods necessary.

Pattern // Vogue 1247

Fabric // Silk crepe de chine from here.

I know! I know! I said less of the fancy this year. But this is the first of a small backlog of un-photographed garments from last year. I’m enjoying the illusion of being a month ahead so we’ll just pretend that I’m super organized and on top of my game okay?! Come the end of January, it’ll be back to a top here, a skirt there in between, you know, raising human beings and stuff. This is Vogue 1247 and we are in love. If you’re into this sewing thing, then you’d know that’s its not every day nor every garment where you’re blown away by your own sewing efforts. So when it does happen, its all the more special. The stars align, the sewing gods smile down and it makes perfect sense why you do this thing that you do. Sure, there are bits I wish I’d taken more care with. Its not a perfect garment. But staring doe eyed at the finished top and seeing not too much distinguishing it from ready-to-wear is a pretty unbeatable feeling. Like runners high but without the mess.

Ohhhh wait, back up. That was from three feet away. If we zoom in closer, you’d notice the front pieces don’t quite intersect at the same point and the shoulder pleats are different widths. I am coming-to-terms-with-being-okay-with-tolerating a few dodgy bits in the face of mostly overall magnificence. Progress Not Perfection. The pleaty problem may have something to do with using broken off chunks of tailors chalk as a marking tool. Since marking vital things like darts and pleats with a thick blurry line, does not make for precise sewing. I’ve since acquired some chalk pencils. As for the front section where all the triangular pieces intersect, well, I got excited about finishing and ignored the creeping feeling that there may have been some important markings I really should go back and check. So no, the front pieces didn’t line up and consequently ate 1/2 inch from each side. Anyway, everything was and is okay. But good foresight in choosing a print that hides all manner of sins.

I feel like I’ve had this pattern in the stash forever. Actually it may have been the virgin ‘adult’ pattern purchase. I fell a bit in love with Sallieoh’s version and then discovered some of its beautiful cousins, see Closet Case Files, Crab and Bee, Cloth Habit. Now if, like me, you’re a girl that likes your tops a bit slouchy, with interesting details (a geometric pieced front section), a mid length sleeve and some cuff action then this one’s for you. Best of all, are the finishes. The pattern has french seams, a bias finished neckline and faced sleeves. Things I never used to give a thought to, but am coming to appreciate, deeply.

So, the reason I’ve been balking for so long is sizing issues everyone seems to be having. The main complaint being it runs extremely large. But now I feel I’ve surely caught up on every version ever sewn and blogged plus made my own, hopefully I can shed some light. In Vogue patterns, I usually make a 12. However, for Vogue 1247, if you go to the secret, but not so secret section called ‘finished garment measurements’ on the pattern itself (thanking Sallieoh for this genius), you will find that you can easily size down at least one or two sizes and still end up with a loose fitting top instead of a sloppy ill fitting top. But if its a poncho your heart desires then who am I to judge. Now, if you’d sat me down and said Sophie, you probably should muslin this one, including that front section, I would have told you where to go. I figured the best chance for a decent sizing guestimate was measuring and re-measuring and trying on roughly pinned pattern pieces until I felt fairly confident. I sized down two whole sizes to an 8. To keep some length I added approx 3/8″ in length and cut the sleeves to the size 10 length. The sleeves could be longer but overall the fit is ace.

The other potential pitfall here is depth of the v-neck . I like cleavage as much as the next person but on a top like this its more like gape-age. On the size 8 the V is fine, but only just. If I’d made even the 10, or the 12, I may legally have had to place warning signs: Beware the chasm! And slightly beware, the bias sleeve facings, which threatened to pull every which and curl up while attaching to the sleeves. This part was actually the most challenging and I’m hoping it will be less so in a cotton voile, for no.2. So really there are only a couple of things but nothing significant enough to be put off making a second one and hopefully no-one off a first one!

Finally, five days after having wisdom teeth out and I’m in some sort of state to string a sentence together. Not through my mouth, since I’m still looking like an angry rabbit, apparently. So before the op, I bundled my machine off for a service and since the op there’s been the distraction of food. What can I eat? When can I eat again? When can I eat Ultimate Pork Tacos with Spicy Black Beans & Avocado green salad? Yup, totally been torturing myself watching Jamie and Nigella all week, from the couch at my parents place. But now, back home, there’s the exciting proposition of an empty sewing table. Best feeling ever! It’s looking like Vogue 1247, but also possible a random will jump the queue.

Pattern // Wiksten Tank

Fabric // Silk crepe de chine from Spoonflower.

Before we go further, just take a moment to behold the small victory of pocket placement. What pocket? That’s right, see, left breast. No, my left. It wasn’t necessary to match it up but I liked the idea of an incognito pocket and the challenge of matching. Like sewing Tetrus. I made my first Wiksten early on in the piece, my second one died a horrible death recently and now this one, which won’t be the last. Simply, it’s a satisfying sew, I love the fit and insides are pretty (french seams). Its a feel-good project and you need feel good projects when you are just starting out sewing for yourself but also when you’re in a sewing slump or just come out of sewing hell (see gold sequin amazing nightmare dress). Which is why I chose it as the project to introduce my lovely, workshop guineapigs goers to the world of sewing for themselves at The Craft Sessions retreat.

 Well it’s no secret anything Wiksten Tank designer, Jenny Gordy, touches turns to gold. More than once I’ve longed to have an actual piece of actual Wiksten clothing hanging in my wardrobe and Jenny must have sensed this because, quite amazingly she contributed a whole bunch of beautiful fabric designs from her collections to Spoonflower, where you and I can get them printed out onto silk, cotton, jersey and have our own piece of Wiksteny goodness. I’ve loved this print so hard but been unsure how to make the most of it (the pressure! the pressure!) and so decided to sew a special version to take down to the Yarra Valley. Along with a bunch of other ridiculously inadequate wardrobe choices for a frosty weekend in the Victorian highlands. Seriously it was so cold, I spent the first night in a random cardigan hand-knitted by someone’s grandmother. Which now that I think about it, may have been the catalyst for wanting to learn to knit….

You know what gets me going in the morning? PRE-WASHING! If you pre-wash your fabric this magic thing happens where your top stays the same size the next time you wash it and again after that. Or, also kind of magic but mostly depressing, if you choose not to pre-wash, you get to see all your hard work turn into a shrinky dink, like Wiksten number two…three inches shorter, not even wearable as a crop, will remain un-blogged.