04/10/2012

Peplum while they’re hot

ADA SPRAGG // DIY Polka Dot Peplum Top
At least, peplums were hot when I began thinking about this top almost two months ago. Are they still hot? Does anybody know? Anyway, I knew I wanted in on the action. I also knew the high necklines of these peplum patterns Vogue 8815, Burdastyle, Salme just weren’t going to cut it for my broad shoulders. If you remember this chat, and this one about the virtues of sweet heart necklines it will make sense that I pinned, this anthropologie number as inspiration for my ultimate peplum top. As for putting it together, the plan was just to borrow the bodice of my wiggle dress, Vogue 8280, make the sleeveless version, and, you know, simply move the zip from the back to the side and pinch the peplum from the Salme pattern. How hard could it be, right? Right?!
Dantela Corset Top

It’s come to my attention that the last three garments I’ve sewn have all had some mods from the original patterns. It’s been thrilling plotting ideas and just kind of sewing by the seat of my pants with a vague idea about the construction. But meltdown is never far away. Changing the hemline on this top went pretty smoothly, adding a side cinch to the Mission Maxi was manageable but let’s just say my trusty ‘how hard can it be attitude’ only goes so far. Peppi nearly killed me! The truth is, it didn’t actually take me two months to sew. At least one of those was spent avoiding it like the plague.

Ada Spragg // DIY Peplum TopAda Spragg // DIY Peplum Top

The details:

I followed the instructions for the lined sleeveless version of Vogue 8280 and lengthened the bodice by an inch. I was originally going to leave the peplum unlined but this beautiful Nani Iro Double gauze ‘Pocho’ dot is quite see-through and flimsy so I decided to line after all. That’s where things went rather pear shaped for a while. I attempted to bag out the hem but then I couldn’t turn the top back out the right way. I would have laughed but I was crying at the time. Unpicking followed, along with profanities as the delicate fabric threatened to disintegrate with every un-pick.  I couldn’t figure out the best way to hem so upon the advice of the girls at work, I basted the lining and the gauze together, folded over once and serged, which made for a super floaty finish. I attempted to put the zip in a few times before I was happy with it and ended up hand-stitching the lining to the zipper. It could also have done with some interfacing through the flange sections for support. It’s a hand-wash only garment!

Ada Spragg // DIY Peplum Top

So despite some tricky bits, it really turned out beautifully. And like childbirth as soon as I cradled Peppi in my arms I forgot the agony and just wanted another. But there’s too many new patterns, see here, to go back for seconds so soon. Besides I just want to follow a regular pattern from start to finish without any brain-straining modifications. Oh wait, that will have to wait until after my placket-less, lowered-hem, capped sleeve version for the Megan Nielsen Banksia Sewalong. Sigh…

Ada Spragg// DIY Peplum Top
We spent the weekend in beautiful Byron Bay, and finally had a chance to take some photos of the top. I have to say there were a lot more people around than I’m used to. Normally I like to go about it all as if reclining on crates, or sidling up to suspicious looking plants is just the most appropriate thing I could think to do at the time. But there were noticeably more ‘special’ faces to crop out in this lot so I must have been feeling the pressure.

04/08/2012

D.I.Y Tribal Side-cinched Maxi

Ada Spragg // DIY Side-Cinched Maxi DressI found the inspiration for this maxi with a difference in this Lululemon dress. I was however slightly bummed that someone clever and witty named it the ‘It’s A Cinch Dress’, stealing the perfect would-be blog post title. Oh well, I forgive them and give thanks for the inspiration behind my new spring / summer / autumn / winter maxi. It’s winter here, albeit mild and mostly ignorable, so I’ve been wearing it with a blazer and some boots but come summer I’ll be donning strappy sandals and hopefully longer, slightly less temperamental hair. Multi-seasonal? Very wearable? Check and check.

_MG_4281 Ada Spragg // Side Cinched Maxi Dress DIYSo maybe you recognize this pattern from here, it’s the Mission Maxi transformed with a really simple mod. After studying the Lululemon number, squinty eyed, I decided surely it couldn’t be that hard to add a cinched side? The seam allowance for the Mission Maxi is a scant 3/8″, so I kept that around the bust but then widened to 5/8 ” from the waist down to allow room for the allowances to become a casing for the drawstrings. After sewing the front and back side seams of the dress, I pressed the seam allowances open, then sewed them flat against the dress 4/8″ either side of the side seams, starting from thigh height down to the hem, to make the casing. As for sense, just holler if I’m not making any. We can try diagrams.

Ada Spragg // DIY Side-cinched Tribal Maxi Dress For the actual drawstrings I was going to use some plain navy cotton cording but it all looked a bit home-eccy. But then I had the idea to make the drawstrings out of the actual dress fabric so I used the bias pattern piece included to make the drawstrings. I knotted the ends several times and added some little brass stoppers found at my new place of work (more on this soon). It seems sometimes the smallest details can really lift a hand-made garment.

Ada Spragg // DIY Tribal Maxi Dress

Sometimes a girl just needs a little tribal in her life. There’s no telling when and where the urge will strike. Just know it will. Since interesting knit prints are a rare breed, when I came across this beautiful cream and navy jersey here, I snapped up two yards. This pattern used about 1.5 so there’s still enough for say, some tribal leggings. I decided to use the wrong side of the fabric because the cream tones on the right side, were more yellow and looked a little sickly next to my ‘winter complexion’. In creating a very-wearable wardrobe I am always thinking about color. Some make me feel joyous and others completely flat.

Ada Spragg // DIY Side-Cinched Tribal Maxi Dress
Take a moment to admire the majestic beer bottle. Not mine!  How did I not see it? Next stop: Peplum top.

15/07/2012

Slouchy woven tee

ADA SPRAGG // DIY slouchy summer tee

Sorry to go all MIA on you like that but I’ve been struck down by some serious adult sewing inspiration. So if  no-one objects, the kid stuff can take a back seat while I indulge in a little, okay a lottle, sewing for moi. And if you’re a mum who decides to make something for yourself, I believe the term is ‘sewing’, not ‘selfish-sewing’ in case there’s any confusion. If you’d asked me a couple of years ago whether I thought it possible to sew a closet that could rival anything store bought I would have been dubious. It’s a wild challenge but since last year’s ‘New clothes free year’ wandering around shopping centers as a recreational activity has lost all appeal. Except to get inspiration for sewing. The happy side effect of this quest for hand-made fantasticness, is that one piece at a time I’m becoming quite the capable sewer. I don’t say this to put anyone off or to blow my own bugel, but in the hopes of inspiring any would-be sewers tinkering on the edge to jump right in. Sewing is just so learn-able.

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I swear I’m not intending every post to begin with a sewing d & m lately but I can’t help it. I’m just so completely-utterly-can’t-sleep-inspired! So here’s what you can expect to see in this space over the next little while: a slouchy woven top, a maxi with a difference, a stretchy pencil, something with a peplum and definitely some printed leggings. Okay, enough cryptics, please refer to primitive sketches below. The dude on the left is not part of the plan. My sketchbook has become communal by the looks of things.

b & wWell, sometime around Feb I had great plans for a winter wardrobe. Sometime around June they all went out the window as I got caught up in the northern hemisphere spring sewer buzz. Apart from the fact we hardly have winter, I wasn’t feeling it about the things I had planned to sew and if there’s one thing I’m learning is that sewing time is too precious to make anything you’re half-assed about. Instead I’ve been gathering inspiration from Pinterest and all the amazing sewing around blogland for these pieces that are hopefully multi-seasonal but some just plain fun. First up, a slouchy woven tee….
Ada Spragg // DIY Slouchy Woven Tee
…made from….
Ada Spragg
That’s right, a $4 piece of thrift store woven, semi-knit, mesh-y synthetic stripe fabric from another era. I don’t really know what it is. But I bought it with no pattern in mind, just summer. It doesn’t iron at all, would probably melt, but turned out to be a perfect match for this pattern that has no facings to press.
Ada Spragg // DIY Slouchy Woven Tee

And this pattern: Simplicity 6025 + Wiksten tank. Yes, you read correctly. I’ve been pining for slouchy tees, pinning them into my sewing inspiration pinterest board and longing to re-create one. I came across this pattern with version B and knew I’d want to change the length from tunic to tee and give it a softer looking hem. I used the Wiksten tank pattern to make the new hemline and traced it straight onto the simplicity pattern. I also added an extra inch of length, since I’d actually like my Wiksten tank to sit an inch or so lower. The widths of the two tanks matched exactly which made it a real no-brainer alteration to make, if you’re interested in giving it a go.

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Sizing: I cut the 8 based on a 34 bust measurement and a finished garment bust measurement of 38 (quite slouchy), so I can only assume the sizing must be quite different between simplicity and Vogue patterns, in which I make something around a 12 based on bust. Anyone else had strange sizing experiences? To accommodate long arms I cut the sleeves at the length of the size 10, and could have even gone longer.
Mods: The pattern calls for the neckline to be finished with binding made from the same fabric but because of the no-pressing issue I used bias binding instead, which worked superbly. I used the bias again to hem the shirt but finished the sleeves with a regular hem because I thought you would be able to see the bias binding the way the sleeve sits when finished. It wouldn’t press at all so I rolled it over twice, pinned then stitched. It got a little stretched along the way but because of the way the sleeve is held up it’s not noticeable.

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Make again? I love this top and would be interested to see how it looks in a fabric with less body and more drape. I’d also think about cuffing the sleeves. I’ve just bunched them under the strap here rather than roll them over once like you’re supposed to, because I didn’t like the look of seeing the sleeve seams on the outside.

Forecast…sew storm!

01/07/2012

For a girl

And it’s not mine. Don’t freak out mum. Max set the task of sewing something, um, pretty, for Little Sister Week and it had me in a spin. What do I sew for a girl? Do I have a girl style? Would there be pink? Am I the frilly type? But more importantly, who was I going to sew for? As you can probably tell, babes of the girly variety are in short supply around these parts. And the extended family isn’t much help either. So I decided to make something purty for Max’s little girl, Edison..a whimsical frock based on one of my fav boy patterns…can you guess which one? Find out here!

24/06/2012

Miz Mozelle’s Hummingbirds

purtyOne night, while working on this dress, I was overcome by a major sewing appreciation moment. You know the obvious stuff that comes to mind: a creative outlet, playing with fabric, colour, fashion. The secondary stuff…Sanity. Distraction. But I was suddenly all appreciative of some other things learning to sew has taught, namely patience and trust. On my first grade report the teacher wrote ‘Sophie does not like to try things unless she knows she will be good at them’. Aaah, still so true. Surely I’m not alone in getting so easily overwhelmed by the sum total of something that I can’t bare to start just in case I get stuck along the way. But sewing has taught me to go slowly and take care with big things like following instructions, smaller important things like transferring markings but also to get help when I hit a bump. Generally, to trust in the process. For someone with giver-uper tendencies it’s a pretty major revelation that if I take each step one at a time and don’t look down (get freaked out by section coming up), I end up with a finished dress in my hands. It’s the craziest thing.
puty2IMG_3805 (Large)Oh man, I la la la LOVE this dress. And not just the dress but the pattern behind it, the Miz Mozelle by Jamie Christina. Admittedly, it wasn’t even in the project queue (just floating around my sewing inspiration pinterest board). But I’d been wondering what to make out of this extra drapey pink jersey with finches (an etsy find from here) and after seeing the white version of the Miz Mozelle I was sold…and made an impulse pattern purchase. Oooo sewing thrills!
IMG_3813Let’s talk about the pattern. In my shortish sewing experience, there’s only been a handful of clothes I’ve made, where I’ve thought ‘yup I am going to make another one’. But for good reasons both the Mission Maxi Dress and the Miz Mozelle make the list with their flattering fit, neat finish, not to mention a beautiful end result. This dress is basically a slipper for your whole body, it’s soooo comfy. There’s lovingly thought out details like binding on the capped sleeves, a sweet little collar and a key hole with button closure. I added piping to my collar to make it stand out from the background fabric and found a pale pink heart button. Saccharine enough for ya?IMG_3801 (Large)
IMG_3856 (Large)Sometimes you just have to hear things a few times, from a few different angles before it clicks. I’ve been this way about sewing knits, knowing there’s some magical combination of this foot and that stitch and yadadyaa. And I kind of got it, but it wasn’t until the last few knit projects that it’s really come together. This dress sewed like a dream and is ten times neater than my last stretch adult stretch project, the Tigerlily Maxi. No puckers, no pulling and I can put it down to this: Stretch needle, walking foot and stretch stitch in the parts that need to stretch and regular stitch for the rest. Finally, I think I’ve tamed the stretch. But maybe not the thistle…
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…note to self: blow away from wind.
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